Although it would mean cutting my time in Budapest short, I thought it would be worthwhile to take a day trip to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. The journey would take roughly the same amount of time as going directly to Vienna, while giving me a sliver of a new country, city, and culture. I departed Budapest fairly early to take the train to Bratislava. After the 900-metre walk back to the train station, I purchased my ticket and waited for departure.

My expectations for Budapest were high, as most people had spoken warmly about their visits. Having just come from Zagreb, where I had such an enjoyable time, I was uncertain whether Budapest could live up to them. In many ways it did; in others it did not. Overall, I left with a good impression. Having arrived late at night, I walked directly to my hotel, about 900 metres from the main railway station. I checked in, watched some BBC World, and went to sleep.

I booked a two-bed room in a Zagreb hostel based on its reviews, price, and especially its location. Zagreb, at least near the main train station, is laid out in simple, straight blocks, so I found my hostel without delay. After entering through a tall, solid double door, I found the stairwell pitch-black and completely silent. It was not exactly what I had expected. I climbed the first floor, but no hostel.

My ultimate goal was Budapest, but with a few spare days, I opted to visit Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, and then spend the night in Zagreb. Because every Slovenian border can be reached within three hours of Ljubljana, the travel time was not unreasonable. I caught a bus from Bled to Ljubljana to begin the journey. Ljubljana appeared to be a clean, compact city that was easy to explore on foot, with many interesting sights close together. My layover was only a few hours, so I wanted to make the most of it. I would not claim that anyone can see a city in an afternoon, but walking around still seemed better than sitting in the train station.

The Salzburg main train station is undergoing major reconstruction - with boards and temporary walkways everywhere. I boarded my train to Bled shortly after 8:00am, which included one transfer in Villach. In Villach two other travellers joined me, a couple from Arizona, who were on their way to Ljubljana for a first family reunion / Christmas celebration. I enjoyed my brief encounter with the couple, an engineer and a teacher, where I discussed work/life balance and how lucky I am to live in a country that values such balance. They marvelled that I could travel regularly, stating that their children, my age, only dream of taking a month off to travel.

As a small town, Český Krumlov offered limited options for travelling into Austria. The train to Linz first travelled back through the Czech Republic before circling a mountain and crossing the border. Online, I found a last-minute shuttle service from Český Krumlov to Linz or Salzburg. The operator often needed to send a car or van south to collect passengers in one of those cities, so last-minute bookings could be discounted. I booked at half the normal fare, confirmed the time and price with the agency, and arrived at 6:00am ready to travel into Austria.

My first order of business upon arriving in Krakow was to visit Auschwitz, one of the reasons I had come. While it may not be on every traveller’s itinerary, I had regretted not visiting these historical sites on my last trip to Europe. Entrance to Auschwitz I locked my bags in storage at Krakow’s main train station and located the bus terminal after walking beneath the railway tracks. I was apprehensive about visiting the camps. Although I had visited other sites of atrocities, I was nonetheless unprepared for what lay ahead.

Prague was, fortunately, a refreshing stop. Although I had generally enjoyed my travels from Paris, missing an essential train connection had dealt a blow to my energy levels. One of Prague’s rejuvenating experiences came shortly after I arrived and went looking for food. I wanted pizza and a beer on tap. My hotel was on the other side of the main square, so I walked up and down the square and along several side streets until I found a small pizza shop in a basement. I ordered a simple, slightly salty cheese pizza and tried two different beers. By the end of the meal, I felt refreshed and ready to continue the day.

Today was not the best of travel days. I woke after my large dinner needing to pack, shower, and reach Gare de l’Est before 10am. Luckily, my bags were light and easy to pack, with few things that did not have a regular place. M gave me a ride to the Metro after my obligatory coffee and croissant, and I rode Line 7 to catch the TGV.

My flight arrived in Paris slightly ahead of schedule. I passed through customs and security without delay, then ordered an expensive but worthwhile “little breakfast” of coffee, orange juice, and a croissant. Our host for the Paris trip, James, instructed us to take bus 183 to Camille Groult, then walk a few blocks to the house. I called to say that I had arrived on time and was on my way. Moments later, my phone ran out of power; three days of maps and Wi-Fi without an opportunity to recharge had drained the battery.