Penang. Expat.

Ahh. New Zealand coffee must be of a new variety — mimicking Sweden, the coffee is roasted dark and bold. Just the way I like it. Glancing out the window a flurry of rain hits the people walking around, all darting for cover like little ants. Realising how thoroughly the internet has become part of my life, I feel as though half my time is spent searching for the next affordable hotspot.

Work in Kuala Lumpur stagnated due to the red tape of Telekom Malaysia. What do you mean your SDSL modems can’t be put into bridge mode? And we can’t buy our own? Needless to say, I was quite frustrated and even confused. Since I had been working rather long days I decided to go to a little island called Penang — a spot known by many for the laid-back beaches and cheap eats. On my final night in Kuala Lumpur, I worked until 4:30 a.m. to finish a website prototype and tie up a few loose ends. I awoke at 6:45 a.m., when a colleague collected me and drove me to the bus station. Three nights in Penang should be relaxing, and I decided not to bring my laptop.

Initially I fell asleep in the bus station waiting for my bus; not before asking three people to make sure to wake me up. At about 8:15 I woke up and looked around: nobody was to be seen! The woman to my left had gone, and the conductor was nowhere to be seen. I have always had a good internal clock that lets me wake at just the right time. Apparently the bus was delayed (whether because of technical problems or low ticket sales, I will never know). At 9:30 a.m. I boarded the next bus and immediately fell asleep. A few hours later I awoke and there was a sandwich and drink in front of me. I was sleeping so deeply that I did not even notice. I made an excited noise, and then began talking to the woman across the aisle. I immediately noticed her accent but could not place it. It blended English and Australian tones with something else. Quickly she expressed her birth in Germany, upbringing in London, adult life in Australia and “retirement” in Bali. She was, as far as I can remember, the first expatriate I had ever met.

We chatted for hours upon hours, swapping stories about marriages (her), old relationships (me) and traveling (both). Her stories were illuminating. She quickly painted a picture of Bali — everything from daily life to local customs. I heard stories of wealth and fame and poverty — digital photos included. We jumped in a taxi and went to a shopping mall — my goal to find a pair of board shorts and hat, her goal to find some little trinkets for her friends’ daughters. I was quite unsuccessful, although I found myself wishing I had another bag. Much of the clothing in Penang was very inexpensive — most new shirts averaging maybe $3-4USD. And these shirts are not plain; they resemble Gap and A&F styles, though I suspected most were factory surplus. It was striking to see shirts that might cost $70 in the United States selling for as little as 70 cents in Penang.

Dinner at a seafood restaurant brought more conversation, with seemingly endless topics. I have always found it interesting when I can talk to people for hours upon hours. A taxi ride home put me safely into bed for a good night’s sleep before a long day.

Woke up rather early and wandered around some more. We were on a mission to find Lafala or something like that, which when we did, tasted pretty rough (but apparently is a must-have for Penang/Malaysia). I had grown accustomed to excellent food, but this meal in Penang was a disappointment. Around noon, I set off on my own, my goal: the mountain in the background. For those of you interested, you can get a satellite image of Penang at maps.google.com (Penang, Malaysia). I walked from the seafront (or two blocks in) all the way into the hills in the background. And back. Through all the winding streets, the walk took the rest of the afternoon — maybe a total of 7 hours. Upon arriving at the hotel, I went for a massage. Without going into detail, it became an unexpectedly awkward experience. That story is better left out.

Unfortunately, the next few days were not very relaxing. Work remained on my mind and, because getting online was difficult, I continually thought about what needed to be done. I had an open invitation to Bali, which was quite appealing, and I was very close to buying tickets (about $150USD each way from KL). After finally finding a cafe, I sat with my work email in one window and AirAsia flights to Bali in another. I decided I had to get to Singapore and sit in an internet cafe and finish my work. Bali was ruled out. The decision proved fortunate, as news soon emerged of attacks in tourist areas.

Soon enough I was on the bus heading back to KL, and was picked up shortly after arriving. I went into work and tried to figure out how to cut through the red tape. With a colleague leaving for China the next day and TM moving slowly, I decided to bring in a new DSL modem on a future visit. With my work “done” I stayed the night near Chinatown and in the morning boarded a bus for Singapore.