Hi everybody! I did not quite realise it, but today is Christmas Eve. I hope my family will not be too upset with me. We are at an internet cafe that costs one euro a minute. Casey is doing something to my left, while the host to my right is listening to Ricky Martin. Too funny. Yesterday we woke up, packed, and left our bags in the main office. I made another wonderful breakfast: eggs, yoghurt, a chocolate cookie, and bacon. The eggs and bacon were especially good wrapped in a piece of flatbread. I wandered through the residential district, saw a few churches, and visited the Stilles Museum. It was a little unusual, but an event there made me think I should start playing chess again. I then went around the corner to the Neue Synagoge. I accidentally entered the synagogue itself rather than the museum and was quickly redirected. The rapid German explanation was beyond me, but the message was clear. The museum was amazing. I had no idea the synagogue was so large, and the experience was quite moving. I spent about two and a half hours there, first learning its history and then viewing an exhibition about children who survived the Second World War. The stories were deeply sad; so many described parents who had been taken to camps and murdered. Next, I wandered along the river and across the Liebknecht Bridge, nearly falling because the previous night’s snow had frozen. I saw the Palace of the Republic, which was under construction, and the Marstall, or old stables. A woman handed me a German newspaper. “What am I supposed to do with this?” I wondered, but she insisted I take it. I chatted with her co-worker, whose brother lives in New York City. No, that is nowhere near me. I walked along Unter den Linden, saw several university buildings, and continued to the American Embassy. The embassy was like Fort Knox, with barriers everywhere, and they would not let me in. Oh well. I then went to Checkpoint Charlie, though not yet into its museum, before continuing to the Jewish Museum. I spent several more hours walking through that harrowing and remarkable museum. Its architecture was so powerful that it made me feel physically ill. The paths between exhibits were confusing and disorienting; every route seemed to lead up or down even though the floor was level, or so I thought. My most memorable experience was entering the Holocaust Tower, which I had assumed was a conventional exhibit. A staff member opened the darkened door, and I stepped into what felt like an outdoor concrete tower. With the snow, cold, and darkness, the design made the history feel immediate. Only a thin line of light was visible at the top, while sirens sounded in the city beyond. I then crossed the city to the Brandenburg Gate, met Casey for coffee, and took the train back to the apartment. We drank wine, played cards, watched German television, and fell asleep after a long but powerful day. So, Checkpoint Charlie, here I come!