Epiphanies, and, well, more Kimchi!

Published on Sept. 16, 2005 in South Korea

My last day in Korea, wow. Somehow I am reflecting on my adventure and seems like Korea, for me, has been a paradox. A city with so much to see and nothing to see. A culture so polite and warm but stubborn and cold. A history of pride and shame. Korea has personally been an adventure but no typical adventure has occured. Thinking back over the last week I am beginning to realize that possibly Korea wasn’t about exploring another culture, but exploring myself.

The last six days appear to have been a series of trials and tribulations. Undoubtably I will arrive in KL a different person than when I left the States. I’ve learned about my own patience, other’s ability to forgive, the meaning of friendship, new views on different cultures and the ability to accept them. For the first time in my life I was routinely singled out, both good and bad, because of who I am. Usually I emplore the new feelings, however I now almost have a glimpse of what being unique would be like.

Last night I went to dinner and then a club with Hope. Unlike the previous night where I could get to know some people, this other group of friends were surprisingly not quite as warm. Introductions were akward at best, and my opinion on anything mattered little. I walked by myself most of the way to the club. Already feeling slightly uncomfortable I realized just how different I was in every way from the people there. If language wouldn’t have been an issue I might have been able to meet some people, but with prejudices in place, or the lack of a common word of mouth, I felt quite alone. Realizing that Hope was there with her friends and couldn’t “babysit” me I tried to stay away. Grabbed a beer and talked to a Japanese girl from Paris who asked if I wanted to dance. Quite attractive, nice, sure, why not? I started to realize more and more though that dancing with another girl that I didn’t arrive with would be uncomfortable, but didn’t want to burden Hope, so just decided to take off. As noted earlier I hadn’t slept much the night before, so a good nights sleep was needed.

Reletively early in the morning I headed to the Central City and checked into a hotel — check in was at 2:00, but we all know the receptionist person behind the desk let me check in six hours early. Needing to get some work done before going to KL, needing a good nights sleep, a little time alone and the dread of getting on a bus at 8:00 tomorrow morning led me to a hotel downtown. In all my journies overseas I have never stayed at a hotel, or at least not a real “hotel” (Europe had some “hotels” that were more like ghetto hostels with nice paint). The internet is nice to have, and since I brought my laptop I have control.

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[19:18:24] LF I heard a ring in my ear phones
[19:18:37] Kelvin Nicholson wow, you tried calling me
[19:18:42] LF yeah
[19:18:43] Kelvin Nicholson hold on buckaroo!
[19:18:58] LF I didn’t know what I was doing but the phone symbol was enticing
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My mom is awsome as usual. Soon I’ll be firing up my webcam and showing my mom the view out the window.

I’ve met some great new people and continued building experiences with people I knew from Portland. Nathan, who I met at one of the bars, has the ability through wit to bring out humor in anybody. Mabelle (his roomate) somehow made me feel included when inclusion was needed. Sarah, strikingly dedicated to her work, was the E answer in the conversation with me (at the two tables the conversations were often ABCD and AB, we both knew almost nobody). I couldn’t have asked Amara to welcome me into this city any better; I think she is doing better than I have ever seen her. And Hope, charismatically illuminating all around her; one of the most independent, resiliant and strong people I have met.

Well, that wraps up Korea. I’ll be working and eating the rest of the afternoon, which at this point, sounds like bliss.

The Kimchi Virgin

Published on Sept. 16, 2005 in South Korea

Korea Korea Korea

It is raining, again, but Korea hsa been filled with many bright moments. I have been here for several day snow and am finally becoming used to the climate, the people and especially the food.

The first day I arrived I decided to get lost; this is seemingly a tradition for any city I enter. So, with subway map in hand (but no map of the city) I jumped on the subway, went for 45 minutes, got off, and wandered around. One thing I didn’t realize is that in Korea, if you want to get lost, heck, even if you don’t, you get lost. I stayed maily near main streets since I did need to meet Amara at some point, and couldn’t spend three hours looking for a subway. Some bread entered my tummy, a moped almost ran over my leg, and eventually a nice Vietnamese resteraunt supplied ample grub to maintain me for the rest of the day.

Soon I met up with Amara at the pre-school she teaches at (one of the most prestigious in the city, $1400 a month per child) and I was introduced to each person who worked there. We eventually left, got some food, watched a movie, and fell asleep. I don’t know if jet lag was still in effect, yet I was somehow quite tired.

In the morning I slowly got ready and headed out, to get lost again. A little more wandering I went and visited the Sogang University — Hope is studying Korean here and, although I wasn’t going to be able to see her, I was able to have a directoin for where to go in the city. One comment that is routinely rytheming in the back of my mind is that this city has to much to see but nothing to see. Possibly I have this belief because I am not doing “tourist” things, but from what I have seen and heard the city doesn’t have “sights” that must be “done.” After Sogang I had some food from a traditional style Korean bbq place — a nice lady helped me who spoke no English, so my lunch was somehow ordered with international sign language; puffs, finger counting and pointing. I didn’t really know what I ordered, but decided to play it safe and order what hte group next to me was having (plus I watched how they prepared and ate it, always a good thing so I don’t seem too foreign). I had some type of beef with kimchi wrapped around it, all heated up and eaten inbetween lettuce. Certainly good.

Upon leaving I took a photo and decided to go on a “walking tour.” Of course I got distracted by some stop that said “ditgital complex” which sucked, there wasn’t anything digital about it.

No walking tour.

Finally I met up with my friend Hope and had lunch. We chatted for quite a while but more wandering was needed. Each time I ride the subway I have an interesting encounter. Maybe it is because I’m white, maybe nice, maybe something else. I had to be on the subway for one stop and sat down, apparently in the “elderly” sectoin as was depicted by those universal blue signs. There was plenty of room though, I was going one stop, so I didn’t think too much about moving. An older Korean gentleman came on the train so I got up to give him room. I was only going one stop and always get up for people who deserve a seat. He got my attention and basically forced me to sit next to him — so here is Kelvin smooshed between two 70-something Korean guys. After I sat down he slapped my leg, freaking hard, and we both sort of laughed. I elbowed him joking around and he elbowed me back. The exchange went on for a little while, he gave me a mint, and I got off the train shaking hands.

Luckily I was able to go out to dinner with a group of people from Amara’s pre-school — Jeff, Sandra and their two kids all went to a rather formal, and rather expensive, resteraunt. Many little plates were brought out and after eating all we good, we decided that “the table won.”

Finishing up my stories in Korea last night I met a few of Hope’s friends at a bar. We started eating at maybe 11:00 or so, some hot spicy stew which was pretty darn good. Soon the soju started flowing. Partially because of my previous weekend encounter with Hennesey (that won too) and my semi-irritated stomach I made sure not to drink too much. Plus, with only a week in a country I can’t afford to be hungover. Most of the other people on the other hand got thoroughly happy. I was lucky to exchange email addresses with a few of Hope’s friends who’s paths will be crossing mine in the near future. Two of them are going to Malaysia the same time I am, and another will be heading to Taiwan right around when I would go, if I decide to go that route. The taxi ride home was entertaining, and after arriving back at Hope’s place she poured herself into bed and quickly began snoring softly. Maybe the soju gave me energy, and possibly I had a few things on my mind, but I just couldn’t sleep for the life of me. I called my step-mom (4am here, like 12ish there I think) and chatted for a while. Continuing not being able to sleep I had breakfast and even read a short 100 page book, in the typhoon style rain, that my mom gave to me for my 21st birthday.

Somehow my energy is keeping up and I need to go release it. I don’t think a run through the city would be such a good idea; while it is Choschu (Thanksgiving, and the city is empty) I might get lost and you’all would never hear from me again.

I now have just a few more days in this city. Admittingly I am somewhat done exploring, I have seen some amazing parts of the culture and, while I would like to meet more of the “natives,”still feel somewhat emersed. Work back in the States calls.

Maybe one or two more stories to come, but for the most part another experience and another stamp in the passport is in the wind.

In Korea!

Published on Sept. 14, 2005 in South Korea

Trouble seems to surround those (me) that drink Hennesey. I’ll upload the pictures as soon as I get them off my computer, but, let me tell you, it will be a while before I have that stuff before. Most of you know how rarely I drink, or at least, how often I try not to drink. Saturday we lounged around and eventually headed down to LA and Holleywood. My friend Todd (tallest of all us guys) had a hookup at a new and up-coming club called Vanguard. First we got dressed up and went to sushi. Pav got a bottle of Hennesey, which we finished quickly at the table, and finished eating. Hennesey and sushi? Yea, I don’t think so. After dinner we went to the club where Todd whispered the secret word (some guys name who works there) and we were instantly treated like royalty. We got escorted from the front door (where they don’t actually le tpeople in) to the special VIP rooms that overlooked the dance floor (which, as you will see by the pictures, was pretty freaking kiickin’). The Incretibule Hulks began to flow, and the $10 tip secured their strength. A little drinking, a few photos, lots of dancing; this club was pretty tight. Eventually the Hulks caught up to me, as you will see in the photos, and I went from fully functionally to fully disabled. Actually, I only remember sitting outside a gas station and then waking up in the back of Todd’s car at 7am. My flight left at 11am. An unhappy journey to the airport, I knew the flight was going to be unpleasent. Somehow I checked in, still a little tipsy from the night before. No, a lotta tipsy. I got on my flight, somehow, and flew up to SF. In SF I took a quick nap and got on my freaking long flight to Seoul. Coincidently a co-worker was leaving for China at the EXACT same time from SF as my flight left. Unfortunatly I just missed her, except I saw her plane leave the gate — weird! Anyways, it was a major coincidence and I found it amuzing. I ate some food and got on the plane. The 12-hour flight was painful, despite the individual monitors and 60 movies I could choose from. I eventually landed in Seoul and made my way through customs. I was in a very slow line — some poeple were having severe difficulties. When I eventually got to the desk she barely looked at me; guess just another blonde white American. One of my friends (I have three of them!) living in Seoul picked me up at the airport. Already oweing Amara for picking me up, she also gave me a subway card pre-paid with credits. Eventually we made our way to her house where I tried to be stimulating in our conversation; wait, who am I joking. I was somewhat hungover and had only slept 2 hours in the back of Todd’s car in the last like three days. I was like a brick wall.